By Jia Lissa 
Ryan Murphy’s latest adaptation, The Shards, plunges viewers headfirst into a meticulously crafted ’80s fever dream, a landscape rich with absent parents, chart-topping MTV anthems, the chilling undercurrent of the Satanic Panic, and, of course, the quintessential homecoming queen makeover. This series, based on Bret Easton Ellis’s novel, meticulously recreates the visual lexicon of the early 1980s, with a particular focus on the hairstyles that defined an era and served as powerful signifiers of character and social standing. The dedication to authenticity, from the frosted tips to the voluminous perms, is a testament to the creative team’s commitment to immersing the audience in the period.
The Homecoming Makeover: Transforming Rhonda
A pivotal moment in episode six, the homecoming court coronation, sees former Indiana beauty queen Liz (Evan Rachel Wood) offering a backhanded compliment to her lookalike daughter Debbie (Hayes Warner) and her styling prowess. "She’s a fall, not a spring—she’ll need warmer undertones. But I do like what you’ve done with the hair," Liz remarks, a subtle critique that underscores the era’s emphasis on precise cosmetic ideals. The specific hairstyle in question, Debbie’s severe, glamorously blunt bangs and blonde lob, is a direct nod to Michelle Pfeiffer’s iconic portrayal of Elvira Hancock in the 1983 crime epic Scarface, a deliberate choice by Murphy.
Valerie Jackson, the hair department head for The Shards, elaborates on the significance of these ’80s hairstyles. "That hair is also very iconic from the ’80s," Jackson states, referring to the specific style. "It was really fun to give Evan Rachel Wood something that she hasn’t really had before, style-wise. She was very into it as well. Every time we put that wig on, she instantly would be like, ‘There she is, ready to go.’" This anecdote highlights the transformative power of hair in character development and performance.
The episode titled "Homecoming Part One" details the elaborate plan hatched by aspiring actress Debbie and her high-achieving best friend Susan (Kaia Gerber) to secure the prestigious homecoming queen title for Rhonda (Ivy Wolk). Rhonda, a well-liked classmate and, remarkably, a recent kidnap victim, becomes the focus of their intricate scheme. The initial step in this master plan involves a complete transformation of the free-spirited Rhonda into the quintessential ’80s teen-movie homecoming queen. Debbie’s assessment of Rhonda’s natural look—"Your beauty is maybe more… severe… maybe even feral… Like in a European way"—sets the stage for the dramatic stylistic shift.
Beyond Stereotypes: Crafting Authentic ’80s Hair
Jackson’s approach to the series’ hairstyles was to avoid the more extreme, often later-decade ’80s tropes like heavily shellacked claw bangs and aggressive perms. However, exceptions were made for certain characters and specific narrative moments. In earlier scenes, both Debbie and Rhonda sport crimped hair, a style that, while polarizing, was undeniably a hallmark of the early ’80s. "But when [Rhonda] has her makeover and is going to be homecoming queen, that’s when you get to see more of a softer curl and a feathered bang," Jackson explains.
The transformation of Rhonda is depicted with meticulous detail. Amidst the backdrop of Lionel Richie’s "Lady," and armed with a arsenal of ’80s styling products like Miss Breck and Rave hairsprays, along with an array of curling irons from Debbie’s ornate pink vanity, the best friends work their magic. They meticulously soften Rhonda’s previously poker-straight bangs and long dark hair, coaxing them into a cascade of bouncy curls, artfully twisted on one side and tucked behind the other ear. "Since Debbie and Susan are doing the makeover, her new style is a little more reminiscent of something that they would have worn," Jackson notes, reinforcing the idea that a character’s hairstyle often reflects their social circle and aspirations.
Interestingly, despite the visual cues of curling iron techniques being mimed by Gerber and Warner on Rhonda, Jackson reveals that no hot curling irons were actually used on any of the cast members. "That type of heat closes the cuticle and doesn’t allow the more natural, fluffier textures of this time to shine," Jackson explains. Instead, the team relied on authentic ’80s tools. "I made sure that we definitely used the tools from the ’80s, so every hairstyle on the show is either a blow dry with a hairbrush or with Hot Sticks [flexible electric rollers from Conair that were popular in the ’80s and ’90s]. Rhonda got her little makeover with Hot Sticks." This commitment to period-accurate tools, even when avoiding direct heat, underscores the dedication to achieving a genuine ’80s aesthetic.
The iconic Aquanet super-hold hairspray, prominently featured on Debbie’s vanity, was a point of humorous contention. "Absolutely not," the nine-time Emmy nominee responds with a laugh when asked if it was actually used. While the product itself might not have made the cut for actual styling, Jackson did consult with the props department to ensure Debbie’s vanity was authentically stocked with ’80s-specific products and tools.
Character Deep Dive: The Hairstyles of The Shards
The series dedicates significant attention to the evolving hairstyles of its core group of wealthy Los Angeles teenagers in 1981, using them as a visual narrative for their individual journeys and character arcs.
Susan: The Golden Girl
As the self-assured valedictorian and class president, Susan (Kaia Gerber) embodies an effortless perfection, mirrored in her perpetually immaculate hairstyle. Her long, lush, side-parted waves are always precisely styled as she navigates the halls of Buckley Prep. Jackson describes the goal for Susan’s hair as creating a "nice, natural, fluffy texture that was very reminiscent of that time frame, although I still needed to make sure that she looked like a student because [Kaia] is a model."
Inspiration for Susan’s look was drawn directly from Gerber’s supermodel mother, Cindy Crawford. "Her mom was definitely an inspiration [for Susan’s hairstyle] because she’s got beautiful hair. Kaia and I would talk about this often," Jackson reveals. "If I was curious if a certain style would look good on her, I would look at some references of her mom [in the same style]. I’m like, ‘OK, that looks good on her mom…’ And she loved that because they’re so close." This familial connection not only provided visual reference but also added a layer of personal resonance to the styling process.
The coveted "silky" waves of Susan’s ’80s-authentic style were also achieved using Hot Sticks. Jackson aimed for a texture that would make audiences question its natural origin: "I wanted the audience to be able to look at her hair and feel like that is her natural texture—does she have a perm?—and then just get lost in how beautiful it looked." The styling, again drawing from Crawford’s iconic looks, involved maintaining Susan’s flawless side-swept and pinned-back waves. Furthermore, Jackson notes that Gerber shared her mother’s affinity for products from the renowned Stephen Knoll salon, a connection that ultimately proved beneficial for the show’s overall aesthetic.
Debbie: The Blonde Bombshell
Debbie (Hayes Warner) is characterized by her rebellious spirit and her ambition, traits visually underscored by her striking platinum blonde hair. Her boyfriend, Bret (Igby Rigney), describes her hair in voice-over as "a shade of platinum, inspired by Blondie," a clear nod to the iconic punk-rock singer. A flashback scene in the high school bathroom shows Debbie fluffing her tightly crimped ’80s hair, a visual that perfectly encapsulates her defiant persona.
Debbie’s bleached-blonde, shoulder-length cut, often featuring visible dark roots, serves as a visual marker of her privilege and status. Jackson explains that Debbie’s hair was intentionally designed "not to appear to be natural. She is coming from a wealthy family, so it is supposed to at least appear like it’s healthy." To achieve the era-specific icy platinum tones, Warner’s already-bleached hair was further adjusted. The front layers were cut to feather out naturally with an easy blowout and setting, a style that Jackson found "not super challenging to get to where we needed to go."
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Beyond the direct Debbie Harry reference, Jackson also found inspiration in ’80s icons like Michelle Pfeiffer, Diane Lane, and Brooke Shields. "Some of the styles when Hayes wore her hair up were reminiscent of her [in the 1980s]," Jackson shares. "It was really fun to look to icons who are still icons today and apply those looks to our young cast."
Best Friends Playing Their Parts: Shifting Silhouettes
While Debbie and Susan’s signature hairstyles remained largely consistent throughout the nine-episode season, subtle shifts in their partings served as important narrative cues. In episode four, as Debbie grapples with feelings of neglect, insecurity about an upcoming televised dance-off, and the palpable threat of a serial killer, she adopts a side part. Jackson notes that this change "usually showed a softer side of her—maybe more of a vulnerability."
Debbie’s ambition to win a Dance Party USA-esque competition to launch her career is reflected in a more voluminous iteration of her trademark hair. Her declaration, "I’m going to rule the world," is accompanied by a hairstyle that exudes confidence and aspiration. Conversely, Susan, exploring her future beyond the confines of her regimented high school life, adopts an unexpected middle part for her glossy, defined curls as she proclaims her desire to "pursue a career in the legal arts."
Jackson elaborates on these subtle changes: "[Her side part] is just a very polished version of her—maybe even part of her uniform. Then when she’s kind of letting her hair down, so to speak, and going to dance-off, it’s a little more of a mature look in her eyes. It’s different. You can see more of her dreams and desires, and it’s not just school related." The narrative irony is amplified when Susan not only adopts Debbie’s defining hairstyle but also usurps her thunder by winning the dance-off competition. Jackson clarifies that while Susan doesn’t necessarily covet the homecoming queen title, she harbors significant aspirations beyond her role as class president, and these ambitions are subtly reflected in her evolving hairstyle.
Robert: The Enigma
The introduction of Robert (Homer Gere), a mysterious and handsome new classmate, adds another layer of intrigue to the series. His presence immediately captivates Susan, threatening her relationship with her jock boyfriend Thom (Graham Campbell), and also draws the suspicion of Bret, who increasingly suspects Robert might be the serial killer. Robert’s dialogue, "Hi, I’m Robert. I like trying new products, like gel and mousse… and studying the philosophies of Khalil Gibran," delivered with a wide, guileless smile during his dance-off introduction, paints him as an enigma. This enigmatic quality is further mirrored in his ever-evolving hairstyles, which evoke the heartthrobs and teen-movie villains of the era.
Jackson notes that Gere possesses "really the silkiest hair ever," a trait that, much like Gerber’s, likely stems from his ’80s icon parent, Richard Gere. The actor’s famous American Gigolo curly mullet continues to influence haircuts to this day. Jackson describes Robert’s initial look as "the quintessential, slicked-back look, which almost has that mysterious villain quality to it."
Robert’s first appearance, coinciding with a screening of Stanley Kubrick’s The Shining before the start of senior year, was intended by Murphy to feature a "slicked" style. Jackson researched relevant ’80s hairstyles, citing the band A-ha as a key source of inspiration for this particular look. "His school look is a feathery, side part. You see it blowing in the wind, showing a little more of his vulnerable side," she explains. "Then, as he starts to become more immersed into the group, his slicked back hair looks like he’s taking a little more time. It’s feathered. It’s got the volume."
The creation of Robert’s resplendent mullet was achieved using contemporary versions of an ’80s staple: mousse. Jackson describes the process: "I would do a round brush blowout into the shape, and then I would lock it in with hairspray." The sheer volume of hairspray used across the board is highlighted by Jackson: "Everyone was hairsprayed to high heaven. A lot of times, I did not need to redo anybody because their hair would stay because of so much hairspray." This commitment to maintaining hairstyles, often with copious amounts of product, is, as Jackson concludes, "nothing more period-accurate to the 1980s than that." The meticulous attention to detail in the hair and makeup of The Shards not only enhances the authenticity of the period but also serves as a powerful tool in developing and communicating the characters’ personalities and trajectories within the narrative.
