By Jia Lissa 
The world of eye makeup, particularly eyeliner, can be a bewildering landscape for even seasoned beauty enthusiasts. The subtle yet significant differences between various eyeliner formulations can dramatically impact both the application process and the final aesthetic. For instance, attempting to line the delicate waterline with a stiff felt-tip liquid liner is a common misstep that highlights the importance of understanding each product’s unique strengths. This confusion often leads to a reluctance to experiment with certain formulas or a failure to fully leverage the potential of those already in one’s makeup bag.
However, demystifying eyeliner lies not in achieving a flawless, universal technique, but in selecting the right tool for the desired outcome. By understanding the best-use cases for each eyeliner format, individuals can move beyond technique-driven intimidation and instead focus on strategic application tailored to their personal style, skill level, and comfort zone. To provide expert guidance on navigating this diverse category, makeup artists who work professionally with all these formulas share their insights, illuminating how each type can be integrated into your makeup repertoire.
This comprehensive guide delves into the most malleable pencil formulations, the secrets to long-wearing tightlining, the most effective methods for achieving precise graphic looks, and more. Here, we break down exactly what each type of eyeliner excels at and how to wield them like a seasoned professional.
Understanding the Eyeliner Spectrum
The journey into eye makeup often begins with the humble pencil. Its forgiving nature and immediate control make it a staple for beginners and experienced users alike. As we venture further, we encounter the smoky depth of kohl and kajal, the versatile glide of gel pencils, the intense pigment of gel and cream pots, and the sharp precision of liquid liners in both felt-tip and brush-tip applicators. Each offers a distinct experience and delivers a unique finish, catering to a wide array of aesthetic preferences and application challenges.
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Traditional Pencil Eyeliner: The Foundation of Definition
What it is:
For many, the traditional pencil eyeliner served as their inaugural foray into eye makeup. Its accessibility stems from its ability to offer control without demanding absolute precision, making it a reliable choice for years, even decades, after initial use.
Renowned makeup artist Rose Siard, founder of Rose & Ben Beauty and an Allure Readers’ Choice Award winner, describes traditional pencils as "usually a little firmer and more forgiving, which makes it great for beginners or anyone who wants soft definition without committing to a super-sharp line." She favors the Make Up For Ever Artist Color Pencil for its blendability and controllable pigment.
Compared to the more fluid formulas like kohl or gel, traditional pencils possess a firmer texture that allows for gradual intensity building. This resistance, as described by Los Angeles-based makeup artist Christian Briceno, is precisely what makes them valuable professionally: "I like that resistance because it lets me apply the definition gradually rather than deposit a heavy line all at once." Unlike the high-impact finish of liquid liners, traditional pencils tend to offer a softer, more diffused appearance, even in deep shades, as the pigment integrates more subtly with the skin.
Uses:
The traditional pencil eyeliner is a remarkably versatile tool. It is ideal for everyday lash line definition, subtly filling in the sparse areas between lashes, gently extending the outer corner of the eye, or serving as the initial layer for a smoky eye. As Steve Kassajikian, makeup artist and director of global artistry at Urban Decay, notes, "While it is smudge-capable, you just need to be a bit quicker to do so, as it will dry down to lock into place."
Siard often employs these pencils to "lightly map out a wing" before committing to a more defined shape. Briceno, conversely, utilizes them for understated definition that appears effortlessly applied. He also highlights their utility on textured eyelids: "This is also one of my favorite formulas for textured lids," he explains, emphasizing the flexibility in softening lines due to the ability to work in small sections.
Pro Tips:
A common pitfall for beginners with pencil eyeliner is the attempt to draw a single, uninterrupted line. Siard’s primary advice is to "use short strokes instead of trying to draw one perfect line."
For a natural lash-enhancing effect, Briceno suggests pressing the pencil directly into the lash roots rather than drawing a thick line above them. He recommends concentrating the deepest pigment at the outer third of the eye and gradually lightening the pressure as you move inward.
Both Siard and Briceno advise softening a pencil that feels too sharp by swatching it on the back of your hand. This technique, according to Briceno, allows for "precision without the pencil scratching or catching." He specifically endorses the Mineral Fusion Eye Pencil for its balanced smoothness and control.
Kohl and Kajal: Embracing the Smoldering Effect
What it is:
While traditional pencils offer everyday definition, kohl and kajal formulations, with their ancient roots and widespread use in South Asia and the Middle East, are the go-to for a smokier, more dramatic effect. Briceno characterizes kohl as "richer, softer, and more generous with pigment," adding that "it is designed to move, which is why it creates that smoked, slightly lived-in effect so well."
Kohl and kajal pencils, with kajal being the Hindustani term for kohl, are designed for intentional smudging. Los Angeles-based makeup artist Tiesha Williams asserts, "If you want to do a smoky eye, this would be your best bet." Their inherent blendability makes them perfect for achieving a diffused eyeliner look, but it also necessitates a lighter hand during application.
It is crucial to note that modern products marketed as "kohl" or "kajal" in the US do not contain the traditional ingredient kohl. Cosmetic chemist Kelly Dobos explains that "actual kohl is banned because of high heavy metal levels," rendering it unsafe for the eye area. However, the term "kohl" is permissible for marketing purposes as long as no actual kohl is used, with formulations designed to mimic the smudginess of traditional crushed minerals, unlike quicker-setting formulas.
Uses:
Kohl and kajal pencils are best suited for looks that do not require a sharp, defined edge. They are ideal for creating smoky eyes, smudged wings, or even a wash of color across the lid. When applied between the upper lashes, they can also enhance lash fullness without creating an obvious line.
Unlike liquid liners that clearly delineate the start and end of a line, kohl and kajal create a diffused dimension. Briceno favors the Victoria Beckham Beauty Satin Kajal Liner for its ability to create a "sensual rather than precise" eye, as the formula allows ample time for shaping and smoking without feeling greasy or unstable.
Pro Tips:
Due to their creamy texture, kohl formulas require a gentle touch. Williams advises, "Be gentle when using kohl because the creamy, buttery texture makes it delicate and easy to break during application." She recommends the Black Radiance Eye Appeal Blending Kohl for its built-in smudger, which facilitates a smoldering effect. Intensity should be built in layers, starting at the outer corner and blending inward, as applying too much product at once can compromise control.
For the waterline, Briceno suggests applying a single layer and allowing the eye to blink before adding more, which allows the pigment to subtly transfer into the lashes for a softer, more natural appearance.
Gel Pencil Eyeliner: The Best of Both Worlds
What it is:
The gel pencil eyeliner occupies a desirable middle ground, merging the convenience of a pencil with the performance of a liquid liner. "A gel pencil gives you the ease of a pencil with more payoff and wear time," states Siard. "It usually glides on creamier, then sets, so you get a little playtime before it locks in."
Makeup artist Steve Kassajikian notes that gel liners are "more versatile as, unlike liquid, they don’t require as steady a hand and can be blurred and smudged or sharp and graphic." He also highlights their generally waterproof nature. While they offer the blendability reminiscent of kohl and kajal, gel pencils typically set and hold their shape once applied, offering greater longevity.
Uses:
Gel pencils are true multi-taskers, perfect for any definition that demands durability. Williams finds them particularly useful for high-stakes applications like bridal makeup or for film and television where longevity is paramount. "These are great for those waterproof-necessary moments," she says.
They are exceptionally effective for tightlining, lining the waterline, creating smoky eyes that endure, and intensifying the lash line. Briceno also points to gel pencils as a foolproof method for incorporating color, suggesting that shades like navy, bronze, aubergine, or forest green can be worked into the lashes to appear almost neutral.
Pro Tips:
The blendability of gel pencils offers a limited window for manipulation. Siard advises, "Work in small sections. Gel pencils can set quickly, so line, blend, then move on." For a softer finish, immediate blending with a small brush before the formula sets is key. Siard finds the Urban Decay 24/7 Liquid Stick Retractable Liner particularly effective due to its built-in brush, which aids in both blending and refinement. For sharper wings, she recommends using a precise tool like the Rose and Ben Beauty E26 pointed liner brush.
For extended wear on the waterline, Briceno suggests blotting away excess moisture with a clean cotton swab before application, which promotes more even pigment distribution and longevity. He recommends the Lancôme Drama Liqui-Pencil for its ability to provide intense pigment on the waterline and outer lashes without creating a harsh line.
Gel and Cream Pots: The Pinnacle of Precision and Versatility
What it is:
Gel and cream pot liners are celebrated for their creamy, highly pigmented formulas that glide on smoothly. Makeup artist Brenda Orduno, a senior product developer at Beauty Creations Cosmetics, describes them as enabling "easy, precise application with a brush." This format offers the clean, bold finish of a liquid liner but with greater control over shape, thickness, and intensity due to the use of a separate brush.
The need for an additional tool may seem daunting, but it is precisely this aspect that lends the formula its customizability. Siard notes, "A gel pot is great when you want control. You’re applying it with a brush, so you can decide if you want a tight line, a clean wing, or something more dramatic."
Uses:
Gel or cream pot liners stand out as one of the most versatile eyeliner formulas, excelling in classic wings, cat eyes, tightlining, graphic liner, and even smoky eyes. Briceno explains that "with a gel pot, the brush controls the line’s personality. I can use the same product for almost invisible definition between the lashes, a polished wing, or something much more graphic. It has more body than liquid, so it is easier to place and correct, yet it still produces a cleaner, more saturated result than most pencils."
The ability to create an ultra-thin line at the inner corner, gradually build thickness towards the outer edge, or use the product as a base for a smoky shadow look underscores its adaptability. Orduno points out that the creamy texture allows for blending before setting, making it an excellent choice for those who desire precision without being locked into a single style.
Pro Tips:
Orduno advises applying gel liner in "short, thin strokes for a smoother, more precise line" rather than attempting a single, perfect shape. Overloading the brush should be avoided to prevent drag or skipping. Briceno suggests coating both sides of the brush, wiping off excess, and ensuring a clean edge before application.
Proper storage is crucial for maintaining the formula’s integrity. Siard emphasizes keeping the cap closed to prevent drying. Many editors, including those at Allure, are fans of the Jones Road Gel Liner. Briceno recommends decanting small amounts onto a palette and immediately sealing the jar to preserve texture. Orduno stresses the importance of cleaning brushes after each use for optimal hygiene and precise application.
Felt-Tip Liquid Eyeliner: The Marker for Sharp Lines
What it is:
The felt-tip liquid eyeliner functions much like a marker, offering a firm applicator that facilitates the creation of clean, sharp lines. "It’s great for crisp lines, quick wings, and anyone who likes a more structured look," says Siard, who praises the Stila Stay All Day Waterproof Liquid Eye Liner for its ease of use in achieving various line thicknesses and dramatic wings. Briceno enthusiastically supports this product recommendation.
Compared to traditional liquid liner brushes, felt-tip pens generally offer a more straightforward application and greater stability due to their less flexible tip. While this firmness is beneficial for beginners and for achieving precise wings, it can be less forgiving on textured eyelids. Briceno notes that "it creates a consistent line very well, but it may not move as gracefully over folds or textured skin as individual brush bristles."
Uses:
Felt-tip liquid liners are the preferred choice for classic wings, cat eyes, and precise upper-lash definition—any look where a deliberate, polished, and noticeable eyeliner presence is desired. Briceno highlights the applicator’s utility for "small corrections, especially filling tiny gaps between the lashes or refining the upper edge of a wing," and for precisely filling in graphic designs.
Pro Tips:
The creation of a perfect wing requires patience and precision. Siard advises mapping the wing with eyes open before connecting it to the lash line, cautioning against overstretching the eye, as the shape can alter upon release. This advice is particularly relevant for mature skin where elasticity may be reduced.
Briceno describes his winging technique as establishing the wing’s direction with the eye open and looking straight ahead, then connecting it back to the lashes. He emphasizes that "the shape should respond to the actual eye, not to an angle imagined while the lid is closed." He also recommends using the side of the felt tip for the lash line rather than solely the point, as this provides a smoother, more consistent application, reserving the tip for fine details and the wing’s final touch. The Lisa Eldridge Kitten Flick Liquid Eyeliner is often cited for its precision.
Brush-Tip Liquid Eyeliner: The Artist’s Canvas
What it is:
Brush-tip liquid eyeliner represents the most artistic and often the most intimidating option in the eyeliner category. Its flexible bristles allow for a spectrum of looks, from ultra-thin inner corner definition to dramatic, graphic wings. Briceno explains that "a liquid brush liner is more expressive than a felt tip because the bristles respond directly to pressure."
Unlike the consistent line produced by a felt tip, a brush liner behaves more like a fine paintbrush. This flexibility enables a more elegant taper but also amplifies any tremor in the hand.
Uses:
According to Orduno, brush-tip liquid liners are the ideal choice for looks demanding precision and bold color payoff. They are particularly well-suited for dramatic wings, emphasized inner corners, and graphic, editorial designs such as negative-space liner, essentially any look where the eyeliner is the focal point.
Kassajikian acknowledges the formula’s potent, ink-like pigment but cautions that it may not be the most beginner-friendly or suitable for achieving smoky effects. "The formula will dry down, so it doesn’t leave much room for mistakes and isn’t suggested for smudging," he states.
Briceno favors brush-tip liners for looks that require a fluid rather than a stamped appearance. He recommends the MAC Liquidlast 24-Hour Waterproof Liner for its exceptional longevity and crisp finish. He notes that the brush applicator is particularly effective for creating a long, tapering tail, as "as the pressure lifts, the bristles naturally close into a finer point."
Pro Tips:
Mastering brush-tip liquid liner demands patience. For those accustomed to pencils or pens, the flexibility can initially feel challenging. Briceno advises anchoring the elbow, loosening the grip, and allowing the brush to guide the application. He explains that "holding the applicator too tightly makes every small movement of the hand more visible."
Instead of attempting a single, perfect stroke, he recommends mapping the desired shape with small marks while the eye is open and relaxed, then connecting them. This ensures the liner follows the natural eye shape. "I would rather build it gradually on a relaxed eye," he says.
Orduno echoes the advice of starting with small strokes and allowing the liner to dry completely before layering to prevent smudging. She also stresses the importance of keeping the cap tightly closed to prevent the liquid from drying out.
For achieving the perfect cat eye, Kassajikian suggests starting mid-eyelid, following the lash line, and flicking slightly upward at the end. To thicken the line, he advises beginning at the outermost point of the just-drawn line and connecting it to the innermost tip at the mid-eyelid.
Essential Makeup Insights:
Beyond eyeliner, a deep understanding of makeup application and product selection is crucial for achieving desired results. Exploring various techniques and ingredients can elevate your beauty routine.
Expert Demonstrations and Trends:
Visual demonstrations and insights into current trends can provide valuable context and inspiration. Following tutorials and observing professional application techniques can significantly enhance one’s own makeup skills.
