By admin 
Hyères, France – This afternoon, the 41st International Festival of Fashion, Photography, and Accessories in Hyères, France, concluded with a significant announcement, crowning Shanghai-based designer Yui Chen as the recipient of the prestigious Grand Prize. Her collection, "Food Cover," captivated the jury with its innovative blend of nostalgia and architectural silhouettes, marking a pivotal moment as Chen becomes the first Chinese designer to secure the festival’s top honor. The awards ceremony, held at the historic Villa Noailles, underscored a broader theme of renewal, inclusivity, and forward-thinking leadership that defined this year’s edition.
Yui Chen’s Vision: Preserving Memories Through Architectural Form
Yui Chen’s winning collection, "Food Cover," presented a women’s wear-leaning unisex lineup that the designer described as "a way of preserving childhood memories." This profound personal inspiration translated into a collection rich with conceptual depth and technical prowess. Developed in collaboration with Montex, one of Chanel’s esteemed Métiers d’Art embroidery houses, the silhouettes masterfully combined everyday garments with transformative, collapsible overlayers. A striking example featured a delicate yellow lingerie dress juxtaposed with a tent-like structure crafted from transparent lace, or a rigid cage of leather bows. This interplay between the intimate and the protective, the soft and the structured, created a compelling visual narrative that resonated deeply with the jury.
During her detailed showroom presentation, Chen offered insights into her meticulous design process. She revealed a unique approach where every piece is first modeled in miniature, sometimes multiple times, before the actual garments are constructed. This dedication to precision was evident in an eight-paneled sheath dress fashioned from recycled leather, designed to fold flat like an accordion. Her ambition, as she shared with Vogue, extends beyond individual pieces: "Fashion is the most vivid form of theater. My dream would be to create a whole universe and language, like Issey Miyake did." This statement not only highlights her profound respect for legendary innovators but also signals her own aspiration to leave an indelible mark on the fashion landscape through a distinctive aesthetic and philosophical framework.
Chen’s triumph carries significant weight, not only for her burgeoning career but also for the festival itself. As the first Chinese designer to win the Grand Prize, her success reflects the increasingly globalized nature of creative talent and the festival’s commitment to recognizing excellence irrespective of geographical origin. This win is expected to significantly elevate her profile on the international stage, providing her with invaluable resources and mentorship to further develop her unique design language.
A Constellation of Talent: Celebrating Other Fashion Laureates
The 41st edition of the Hyères Festival showcased a diverse array of emerging designers, each presenting collections that challenged conventions and explored deeply personal narratives. Beyond the Grand Prize, several other awards recognized outstanding contributions across various facets of fashion design:
- 19M Métiers d’Art Prize: This prestigious award, recognizing exceptional craftsmanship and collaboration with Chanel’s Métiers d’Art ateliers, was bestowed upon London-based artist and designer Dieter Vlasich Obermann (Mexico/Germany). His collection drew inspiration from "tiliches," a Spanish term referring to "junk" or discarded objects, and the hidden handicraft that can be discovered within them. Obermann’s work transformed overlooked materials into garments of intricate beauty, celebrating the art of salvage and reinvention.
- Ateliers des Matières Prize: Paris-based designer Rachel Luurssen (Netherlands) received this award, which champions innovative and responsible material use. Her women’s wear collection offered a nuanced exploration of Hollywood glamour and coquettes, cleverly intertwined with themes of fading beauty and body dysmorphia. Luurssen’s designs navigated the complexities of societal perceptions of beauty, using textiles and silhouettes to convey vulnerability and strength.
- Supima Prize: The Supima Prize, spotlighting the versatility and quality of Supima cotton, went to Paris-based designer Xiao Xu (China). His men’s wear collection, titled "Uncanny," delved into the realms of latex, 1970s fetish culture, intricate embroidery, and knitwear. Xu’s collection presented a bold and provocative vision, pushing boundaries in menswear design while demonstrating sophisticated textile manipulation.
- Special Mention and Public Prize: Brais Albor Rodriguez (Spain) garnered both a special mention from the jury and the coveted Public Prize. His collection was lauded for its improbable and witty fusion of seemingly disparate concepts: squirrels and "cojones." Utilizing shearling ethically sourced on Vinted, Rodriguez crafted a collection that was both humorous and thought-provoking, demonstrating a playful yet sophisticated approach to design and material sourcing. His dual recognition highlights a rare ability to captivate both critical and popular imagination.
These awards collectively underscore the festival’s role as a vital platform for identifying and nurturing diverse creative voices, each contributing to the evolving dialogue of contemporary fashion.
Comprehensive Support for Future Success
The Grand Prize for Fashion is not merely an accolade; it comes with a robust support package designed to propel Yui Chen’s career forward. Central to this is the backing from Chanel, the festival’s long-term Grand Partner, providing unparalleled mentorship and resources. Additionally, new Grand Partner le19M, Chanel’s hub for its 10 Métiers d’Art houses, will offer Chen access to specialized craftsmanship and expertise, allowing her to further hone her technical skills and realize complex design visions. Further financial grants and material support will be provided by sponsors including the Atelier des Matières, Supima, and newcomer Watteau, a visual content hub. Additional critical support will come from Les Teintures de France, the Alliance for European Flax-Linen & Hemp, and Richemont’s AZ Academy, among others. This comprehensive ecosystem of support ensures that Chen, and indeed all fashion laureates, receive the necessary tools to navigate the competitive industry landscape. As a testament to this commitment, all fashion laureates from this year’s festival will be showcased by Première Classe during Paris Fashion Week in both March and October 2027, offering them invaluable exposure to international buyers, press, and industry professionals.
A "Year of Firsts": Renewal and Female Leadership at the Forefront
The 41st International Festival of Fashion, Photography, and Accessories at the Villa Noailles was heralded by its organizers as "a year of firsts," signaling a profound period of renewal and strategic evolution. This sentiment was visually encapsulated by the festival’s motif: a racing flag adorned with a star on a vibrant pink-and-green checkered ground, symbolizing a return to momentum and a refreshed direction.
Beyond Yui Chen’s historic win as the first Chinese Grand Prize recipient, the festival demonstrated a deliberate commitment to elevating female leadership across its various juries. Hugo Luccino, the festival’s managing director, intentionally placed women at the head of every jury: Chloé creative director Chemena Kamali for fashion, renowned photographer Camille Vivier for photography, and Danish fashion designer Cecilie Bahnsen for accessories. This strategic decision not only ensured diverse perspectives in the judging process but also sent a powerful message about the festival’s dedication to gender parity in leadership roles within the creative industries.
The emphasis on female leadership extended to the political sphere as well, reinforcing the region’s progressive stance. In her welcoming address, Josée Massi, the mayor of Toulon and, notably, the first woman president of the Métropole Toulon Provence Méditerranée this spring, offered words of encouragement to the 30 finalists. "You already have your place. Talent is not about one prize," Massi asserted, highlighting the intrinsic value of their creative contributions. Further, Hyères’ newly-elected mayor, Véronique Bernardini, who is the first woman to hold that post since its creation in 1677, officially opened the festivities. She cleverly riffed on Gabrielle Chanel’s famous dictum, stating, "Trends pass but style remains… and in Hyères, audacity is never out of style." These statements from influential female leaders underscored a shared vision for a more inclusive and daring future for the arts and the region.
Expanding Reach: Cultural Accessibility and Regional Development
A significant strategic shift for this edition was the decision to move the main fashion show to the Forum du Casino, located in the heart of Hyères. Josée Massi lauded this move at the reception, telling Vogue, "This is a renaissance. Culture shouldn’t be elitist. We have to get as close to people as we can." This move signifies a conscious effort to democratize access to high culture and engage a broader public, including the youngest generation, whom Massi affectionately referred to as "the future stands less than a meter tall." She emphasized the importance of proactively reaching out to this demographic, recognizing them as the future custodians of creativity.
Massi articulated a visionary plan for Hyères and Toulon to function as twin hubs for fashion and design, respectively. Toulon is already home to a satellite campus of the École Camondo interior architecture and design school, with plans potentially underway to relocate the Design Parade to its Porte d’Italie district as early as next year. This strategic regional development aims to cultivate a robust ecosystem for creative industries, fostering education, innovation, and economic growth.
Valérie Duport, who assumed the presidency of the Villa Noailles in July, shared her own "first" – voluntarily taking on the challenging role. She paid tribute to France’s pioneering fashion festival, acknowledging that longevity is a rare and precious commodity in an industry often characterized by rapid shifts. Looking to the future, Duport declared, "The Villa Noailles is a living place. When you have that, you welcome people in." She also spoke candidly about the festival’s financial challenges, revealing a transparent plan to address a €1.3 million debt within the next two years, aiming for a fresh start. This openness and commitment to financial stability underline a pragmatic yet optimistic outlook for the institution’s future.
A Continuum of Creativity: Alumni and Expanded Programming
The 41st festival was not only about new discoveries but also about celebrating the enduring legacy of its alumni, showcasing how past laureates continue to shape the creative landscape. This year’s installations featured several returning talents:
- Lucas Emilio Brunner, winner of last year’s Grand Prize for his collection based on inflatables, presented "Standards." This well-executed lineup, inspired by sports flags and 1960s Ivy League style, was created in collaboration with the Ateliers de Verneuil. Standout pieces included draped striped poplin shirts, polos with contrasting trim, and a sophisticated coat in leather marquetry, demonstrating a refined evolution of his aesthetic.
- Emma Bruschi, recipient of the 2020 le19M Métiers d’Art Prize, led a collaborative straw-weaving workshop with Galerie 19M, emphasizing traditional craftsmanship and sustainable practices.
- Amaury Darras, the 2025 Accessories Grand Prize laureate, unveiled "Keratina Medusa," a striking Art Nouveau-inspired corset. This intricate piece, developed in partnership with Goossens, showcased a masterful blend of cabinetry and jewelry-making techniques.
- Adrien Michel, winner of the 2025 le19M Métiers d’Art Prize, introduced a capsule collection inspired by Marcel Breuer’s iconic Cesca B34 chair. The collection was anchored by an innovative shirt that meticulously folds out of a custom leather case, made with Studio MTX, highlighting the interplay between fashion and industrial design.
- Sébastien Meunier, who founded his namesake label after winning the Grand Prize at Hyères in 1998, returned with "Re-Authored," a poignant re-examination of his own extensive creative legacy.
These alumni showcases reinforce the festival’s role not just as a launching pad but as a continuous community, fostering ongoing artistic development and collaboration.
Looking ahead, Hugo Luccino outlined plans for the Villa Noailles’ new era, promising longer opening hours throughout the year and expanded programming. This vision includes building upon the fashion and design festivals with museum-style exhibitions and reviving a roster of artistic residencies, transforming the Villa into a year-round cultural beacon.
The Enduring Philosophy of Hyères
Luccino articulated the core philosophy underpinning the festival’s enduring appeal: "It’s the festival of creativity, a place for young talents to express themselves however they like. They’re the ones who are asking the questions and, above all, will inhabit and imagine the world of tomorrow." He acknowledged the inherent uncertainty in groundbreaking artistic endeavors: "There aren’t always answers. Sometimes there are more questions than answers – but these are subjects that are here to stay. And the first signs of those artistic intuitions, you find them in Hyères." This statement encapsulates the festival’s critical role as a barometer for future trends, a crucible where raw talent is nurtured, and a platform where the nascent ideas that will shape tomorrow’s creative landscape first emerge.
The exhibitions and programming for the 41st International Festival of Fashion, Photography, and Accessories in Hyères will remain open to the public through February 28, 2027. Visitors can experience these groundbreaking works Wednesday to Sunday, from 1pm to 6pm. For more information, please visit villanoailles.com.
