MERIT Beauty has unveiled its latest olfactory creation, New Wave Extrait de Parfum, marking a significant evolution in the brand’s fragrance portfolio. This new release follows the successful debut of Retrospect L’Extrait de Parfum in 2025, offering consumers a distinct yet complementary scent experience. Developed by the renowned perfumers Dominique Ropion and Meabh McCurtin, New Wave is positioned as a contemporary interpretation of the amber fragrance family, characterized by its warm, resinous, woody, and vanilla-centric profile. The fragrance is slated for an official launch on October 22nd, with a retail price of £79 for a 30ml bottle.
The introduction of New Wave signifies MERIT Beauty’s strategic expansion into the competitive fragrance market, building upon the foundational success of its initial offering. Retrospect, lauded for its soft, musky, and subtly powdery notes, established MERIT’s reputation for understated elegance and sophisticated simplicity. New Wave, however, aims to capture a different facet of olfactory appeal, emphasizing warmth, sensuality, and a more pronounced character, particularly suited for the autumn and winter seasons. This strategic differentiation suggests a deliberate approach to catering to diverse consumer preferences within the brand’s established aesthetic.
Background and Development
The creation of New Wave Extrait de Parfum represents a concerted effort by MERIT Beauty to solidify its presence in the luxury fragrance sector. The brand, known for its minimalist and considered approach to beauty products, has applied a similar philosophy to its fragrance development. The partnership with master perfumer Dominique Ropion, a celebrated figure in the fragrance industry known for his innovative and complex compositions, and Meabh McCurtin, underscores MERIT’s commitment to quality and olfactory artistry. Their combined expertise has been instrumental in crafting a scent profile that balances classic amber accords with modern sensibilities.

The development timeline for New Wave, while not explicitly detailed, follows the successful introduction of Retrospect in 2025. This suggests a period of research, formulation, and testing to ensure the new fragrance met the brand’s high standards and resonated with its target audience. The decision to create a distinct scent profile from Retrospect indicates a desire to avoid brand fatigue and offer consumers a range of options that cater to different moods and occasions.
Fragrance Profile and Composition
New Wave Extrait de Parfum is categorized as an amber fragrance, a classification known for its rich, warm, and often spicy or sweet characteristics. However, the perfumers have infused this classic profile with contemporary elements to create a unique and captivating scent. The core of New Wave is built upon warm, resinous notes, which provide a luxurious and enveloping foundation. These are complemented by earthy elements, lending a grounding and sophisticated depth, and a prominent vanilla accord that adds a touch of sweetness and sensuality without becoming overly cloying.
While specific ingredient lists are often proprietary, key notes contributing to the fragrance’s character are understood to include:

- Amber: The foundational note, providing warmth and richness.
- Woods: Contributing to the earthy and grounding aspects, potentially including notes like sandalwood or cedarwood for a smooth, sophisticated finish.
- Vanilla: A key component for sweetness and sensuality, likely a high-quality vanilla extract that adds depth and complexity.
- Resinous Notes: Such as benzoin or labdanum, enhancing the warm, balsamic, and slightly smoky facets.
- Earthy Elements: Potentially including patchouli or moss, providing a sophisticated counterpoint to the sweetness and adding a natural, grounded feel.
This carefully curated combination aims to create a fragrance that is both comforting and alluring, suitable for cooler weather and evening wear. The balance of sweetness, earthiness, and warmth is a hallmark of sophisticated perfumery, designed to evoke a sense of confidence and refined sensuality.
Comparison with Retrospect
MERIT Beauty’s debut fragrance, Retrospect L’Extrait de Parfum, established a benchmark for the brand’s approach to scent. Retrospect is characterized by its softer, more powdery, and musky qualities, often described as comforting and familiar. The presence of iris, violet, and rose notes contributes to its elegant and subtly sophisticated aura. It is often perceived as a "skin scent," meaning it sits close to the body, offering a quiet and understated sensuality.
New Wave, in contrast, presents a bolder and warmer personality. While Retrospect offers a gentle embrace, New Wave provides a more assertive and enveloping experience. The shift towards warmer, richer notes with an earthy edge marks a deliberate departure, positioning New Wave as a fragrance with greater presence and depth. This distinction is crucial for consumers seeking variety within the MERIT Beauty fragrance collection.

The reviewer’s personal preference leans towards New Wave, citing its warmer, more confident character as particularly appealing. This suggests that New Wave may resonate with individuals who appreciate fragrances that make a statement without being overpowering. The comparison highlights MERIT’s successful strategy of offering distinct olfactory experiences that cater to different tastes and seasonal preferences.
In essence, Retrospect embodies a gentle, elegant simplicity, while New Wave offers a more sensual, grounded richness. This strategic diversification allows MERIT Beauty to appeal to a broader spectrum of consumers, from those who prefer understated scents to those who gravitate towards warmer, more complex compositions.
Inspiration and Olfactory Comparisons
The reviewer notes a striking similarity in the overall vibe between MERIT Beauty’s New Wave and Penhaligon’s Constantinople, a fragrance that has unfortunately been discontinued. Constantinople was celebrated for its warm vanilla, earthy patchouli, and mossy notes, balanced with subtle spice. This composition was particularly favored during the colder months for its sensual yet not overpowering character.

New Wave, while not a direct dupe, evokes a similar feeling of sophisticated warmth and balanced earthiness. The reviewer highlights that both fragrances share a common appeal in their ability to be sensual without being overtly loud. The underlying sweetness in New Wave, similar to Constantinople, is grounded by woody and earthy undertones, preventing it from becoming saccharine. This balance is a key factor in the appeal of both scents, suggesting a shared olfactory philosophy that prioritizes depth and character over simple sweetness.
The comparison with a beloved, albeit discontinued, fragrance like Constantinople serves as a strong endorsement for New Wave, indicating its potential to fill a void for fragrance enthusiasts who appreciated the nuances of such scents. It suggests that New Wave has successfully captured a specific type of olfactory sophistication that is both comforting and alluring.
Packaging and Presentation
MERIT Beauty maintains its signature understated and considered aesthetic with the packaging of New Wave Extrait de Parfum. The bottle design is distinct from that of Retrospect, allowing New Wave to establish its own visual identity while remaining consistent with the brand’s overall minimalist and elegant approach to beauty products. This attention to detail in packaging reinforces the brand’s commitment to a cohesive and refined consumer experience. The thoughtful design contributes to the perceived luxury and desirability of the fragrance.

Market Positioning and Consumer Impact
The introduction of New Wave Extrait de Parfum by MERIT Beauty is strategically timed to coincide with the autumn and winter seasons, a period when consumers often gravitate towards warmer, richer, and more enveloping fragrances. By offering a scent that is perceived as more sensual and grounded, MERIT Beauty is tapping into a significant segment of the fragrance market. The brand’s ability to differentiate its offerings, with Retrospect appealing to those who prefer softer, powdery scents and New Wave catering to those who favor warmth and earthiness, is a testament to its thoughtful product development strategy.
The success of New Wave could further solidify MERIT Beauty’s position as a brand capable of delivering high-quality, sophisticated fragrances that resonate with discerning consumers. The positive reception, particularly its comparison to a well-regarded discontinued fragrance, suggests a strong market potential. This expansion into fragrance not only diversifies MERIT’s product line but also enhances its brand image as a purveyor of refined and intentional beauty.
Broader Implications for the Fragrance Industry
MERIT Beauty’s approach to fragrance development, emphasizing balanced compositions and distinct olfactory profiles, aligns with a broader trend in the industry towards more nuanced and personalized scent experiences. The success of brands that offer well-crafted, story-driven fragrances suggests a consumer demand for scents that go beyond mere pleasantness, offering emotional resonance and a sense of individual expression.

The inclusion of expert perfumers like Dominique Ropion in the development process signals a commitment to olfactory artistry, elevating the brand beyond simple trend-following. This focus on quality ingredients and sophisticated formulation is likely to be a key differentiator in a crowded market. As consumers become more educated about fragrance notes and compositions, brands that can articulate a clear olfactory vision and deliver on it are poised for sustained growth. MERIT Beauty’s success with its fragrance line could inspire other emerging brands to invest in similar levels of perfumery expertise and creative direction.
Final Thoughts and Availability
MERIT Beauty’s New Wave Extrait de Parfum is positioned as a compelling choice for consumers seeking a warm, sensual, and sophisticated fragrance for the autumn and winter months. Its rich amber profile, balanced with earthy and vanilla notes, offers a comforting yet alluring olfactory experience. The fragrance’s ability to evoke a similar vibe to cherished scents like Penhaligon’s Constantinople further enhances its appeal.
While Retrospect caters to those who prefer softer, more powdery aromas, New Wave stands out for its warmer, richer character and sensual depth. For individuals drawn to fragrances that offer a grounded elegance and a touch of warmth, New Wave is a highly recommended option. Its thoughtful composition and sophisticated presentation align with MERIT Beauty’s brand ethos, making it a noteworthy addition to the luxury fragrance market.

MERIT Beauty New Wave Extrait de Parfum is priced at £79 for 30ml and is available for purchase from October 22nd. Consumers interested in exploring the brand’s fragrance offerings will find New Wave a particularly appealing choice for the upcoming colder seasons.

