By admin 
The nineteenth edition of Immagine Italia & Co. recently concluded its three-day residency at the Fortezza da Basso in Florence, establishing a definitive roadmap for the Autumn–Winter 2026/27 intimate apparel season. Orchestrated by the Underbeach organization, the event transformed the historic 14th-century fortification into a contemporary hub for the European lingerie industry, drawing a curated selection of exhibitors primarily from Italy and France. This year’s iteration was characterized by a rigorous focus on artisanal integrity, the formal certification of domestic production chains, and a strategic expansion into the plus-size and "total-look" categories. As the global lingerie market continues to navigate a post-pandemic landscape defined by a demand for both comfort and provocative aesthetic reinvention, the Florence show served as a critical barometer for the sector’s health and future direction.
Strategic Context and the Florentine Setting
The choice of the Fortezza da Basso as the venue for Immagine Italia & Co. is more than a matter of aesthetic convenience; it is a strategic alignment with Florence’s identity as a global capital of textile heritage. The fortress, which has hosted some of the world’s most prestigious fashion trade shows, including Pitti Uomo, provides a backdrop that emphasizes the "craft and culture" of lingerie. By positioning intimate apparel within these storied walls, organizers signal that lingerie is not merely a commodity but a sophisticated segment of the luxury fashion ecosystem.
The event focused on the Autumn–Winter 2026/27 cycle, providing buyers and distributors with a preview of trends that will dominate the market in eighteen months. This forward-looking approach is essential for a sector that relies heavily on complex supply chains involving delicate laces, high-tech microfibers, and specialized embroidery. The nineteenth edition saw a notable increase in international interest, with exhibitors and visitors noting that the "intimacy" of the Florentine show offers a necessary counterpoint to larger, more decentralized trade fairs.
The Mandate for Certified Italian Craftsmanship
A central theme of the nineteenth edition was the formalization of the "Made in Italy" label. In an era where consumers are increasingly skeptical of "greenwashing" and opaque manufacturing processes, Italian brands at the show made a concerted effort to demonstrate traceability. This movement is spearheaded by the Italian Lingerie & Beachwear Association, which has sought to create a unified front for domestic producers.
Brands such as Oscalito and Caramì were at the forefront of this transparency initiative. Oscalito, a brand synonymous with high-quality natural fibers, emphasized its use of merino wool, silk, and Egyptian cotton, all processed within Italian borders. This commitment to domestic production is not merely a point of pride but a logistical advantage, allowing for tighter quality control and a smaller carbon footprint.
Industry analysts at the event noted that the certification of production is becoming a prerequisite for entry into high-end retail spaces. As European Union regulations regarding textile waste and supply chain transparency become more stringent, the proactive stance taken by Italian manufacturers provides them with a competitive edge. The emphasis on "refined workmanship" and "silhouettes that whisper" reflects a broader market shift away from disposable "fast-fashion" intimates toward investment pieces that offer longevity and superior tactile experiences.
The French Influence and the Aesthetic Dialogue
While Italian brands focused on precision and technical certification, the French contingent at Immagine Italia & Co. brought a distinct sense of "allure" and "chic restraint." The dialogue between these two dominant European aesthetics—Italian discipline and French romance—defined the rhythmic flow of the exhibition halls.
French collections, such as those from Brigitte Bardot and Huit, showcased a mastery of the "Parisian" aesthetic, which balances seductive nuance with everyday wearability. Huit, a brand with a history dating back to 1968, continued its legacy of avant-garde design, utilizing modern fabrics to create architectural silhouettes that do not sacrifice comfort. The presence of these French powerhouses underscored the event’s importance as a cross-border platform, facilitating a pan-European exchange of design philosophies.
Market Expansion: The Rise of Inclusivity and the Plus-Size Sector
One of the most significant shifts observed at the 19th edition was the "strong and welcome emphasis" on the plus-size market. Historically, the high-end lingerie sector has been criticized for its limited size ranges, often excluding a significant portion of the consumer base. However, the Autumn–Winter 2026/27 collections signaled a definitive break from this tradition.
Exhibitors demonstrated that inclusivity does not require a compromise on style or luxury. Plus-size offerings featured the same intricate laces, sophisticated color palettes, and high-performance fabrics as their "standard" size counterparts. This expansion is backed by compelling market data: the global plus-size lingerie market is projected to grow at a significant compound annual growth rate (CAGR) through 2030, driven by increasing consumer demand for body-positive representation and specialized engineering that provides support without sacrificing aesthetic appeal.
New Voices and Strategic European Debuts
The nineteenth edition served as the launchpad for several significant brand developments, most notably the European debuts of "Un Amore Così" and "Scandale x Maison Close." These debuts reflect a strategic confidence in the Florentine stage as a gateway to the broader European market.
Un Amore Così: The Total-Look Concept
Un Amore Così, the new label from Collezioni (the former producer for the renowned brand Cosabella), introduced a collection that challenges the traditional boundaries of the boudoir. The brand’s "total-look" approach includes everything from basic intimates to outerwear-ready pieces. The dominant material, microtulle, was presented in layered, fluid configurations and a variety of original patterns.
This move toward "lingerie as outerwear" is a response to changing lifestyle patterns. As the lines between private and public dress continue to blur, consumers are seeking versatile pieces that can transition from intimate settings to social environments. The success of Un Amore Così’s debut suggests that the future of the industry lies in this hybridity.
Scandale x Maison Close: Reimagining Heritage
The second major debut involved the reimagining of Scandale by Maison Close. Scandale, a brand with a heritage stretching back to 1932, was once a pioneer in the use of elastic fabrics in corsetry. Under the creative direction of Maison Close, the brand has been revitalized to blend its ultra-feminine historical codes with a modern, provocative sensuality.
The Scandale x Maison Close collaboration represents a broader trend in the industry: the acquisition and revival of heritage brands to capitalize on "vintage" appeal while updating technical specifications for the modern woman. The result is a collection that feels both nostalgic and cutting-edge, executed with a level of sophistication that avoids the pitfalls of overt kitsch.
Economic Implications and Industry Analysis
The success of Immagine Italia & Co. comes at a time of cautious optimism for the Italian textile sector. According to data from Sistema Moda Italia (SMI), the Italian fashion industry has shown resilience despite global economic headwinds, with exports remaining a primary driver of growth. The lingerie and beachwear segments, in particular, benefit from the "Made in Italy" halo effect, which commands premium pricing in markets such as North America, East Asia, and the Middle East.
Furthermore, the synergy between Immagine Italia & Co. and its sister show, Maredamare, cannot be overstated. Both events are organized by Underbeach, a firm that has mastered the art of niche trade show management. By hosting these events in Florence, Underbeach creates a year-round cycle of industry engagement—winter lingerie in February and summer beachwear in July. This consistency allows brands to maintain a continuous dialogue with retailers and the press.
Chronology and Future Outlook
The nineteenth edition has set the stage for a busy year in the textile calendar. The timeline for the upcoming seasons is as follows:
- February 2026: Conclusion of the 19th Edition focusing on Autumn–Winter 2026/27.
- Spring 2026: Brands begin the production phase for orders placed during the February show.
- July 18–20, 2026: The return of Maredamare at the Fortezza da Basso, focusing on Summer 2027 collections.
- February 2027: The 20th anniversary edition of Immagine Italia & Co.
Looking ahead to the July event, industry insiders expect a continuation of the themes established in February, particularly regarding sustainability and the "total-look" philosophy. The Summer 2027 collections are likely to emphasize eco-friendly materials such as recycled nylons and organic linens, as the industry moves toward a more circular economic model.
Conclusion: The Edit as a Competitive Advantage
In a digital age where buyers are inundated with imagery and instant access to catalogs, the enduring relevance of a physical trade show like Immagine Italia & Co. lies in the "edit." The show provides a curated, tactile experience that digital platforms cannot replicate. It offers a space for the "intimacy" of the product to be felt—the weight of a silk slip, the elasticity of a new lace, and the precision of a stitched seam.
Florence continues to offer more than just a venue; it offers a perspective. By balancing tradition with reinvention, the nineteenth edition of Immagine Italia & Co. reaffirmed that the lingerie industry is not just about garments, but about the evolving identity of the modern consumer. As the industry looks toward 2027, the lessons learned within the walls of the Fortezza da Basso—traceability, inclusivity, and aesthetic courage—will undoubtedly serve as the foundation for the next chapter in European fashion.