The burgeoning beauty brand MERIT Beauty has unveiled its latest olfactory offering, New Wave Extrait de Parfum, marking its second foray into the world of fine fragrance. Following the successful debut of Retrospect L’Extrait de Parfum in 2025, New Wave emerges as a sophisticated amber fragrance, meticulously crafted by master perfumer Dominique Ropion and perfumer Meabh McCurtin. This new release aims to captivate consumers with its warm, sensual, and earthy profile, positioning itself as a compelling choice for the autumn and winter seasons. Priced at £79 for a 30ml bottle, New Wave is slated for an official launch on October 22nd, promising to build upon MERIT’s established reputation for understated luxury and considered beauty products.
The Evolution of MERIT’s Fragrance Portfolio
MERIT Beauty, known for its minimalist aesthetic and high-performance clean beauty products, ventured into the fragrance market with Retrospect L’Extrait de Parfum in 2025. Retrospect was characterized by its soft, musky, and slightly powdery notes, featuring iris, violet, and rose, which created a comforting and elegantly understated scent. The fragrance was praised for its ability to sit close to the skin, offering a subtle yet complex sensuality. This initial success laid the groundwork for further exploration within the fragrance domain, with New Wave representing a deliberate expansion of the brand’s olfactory narrative.

New Wave distinguishes itself from its predecessor by embracing a warmer, more sensual, and overtly richer character. The amber fragrance profile is infused with resinous notes, complemented by woody undertones and earthy elements, culminating in a complex vanilla accord. This olfactory composition is designed to evoke a sense of enveloping warmth, making it particularly suitable for cooler weather. The development of New Wave reflects a strategic move to offer a more pronounced and characterful fragrance option within MERIT’s portfolio, catering to a desire for scents with greater depth and presence.
Olfactory Composition: A Symphony of Warmth and Earthiness
The creation of MERIT Beauty’s New Wave Extrait de Parfum is attributed to the collaborative efforts of Dominique Ropion and Meabh McCurtin, renowned figures in the fragrance industry. Their expertise has been instrumental in shaping an amber fragrance that is both contemporary and deeply resonant. The key notes within New Wave’s composition are designed to create a harmonious blend that is both inviting and sophisticated.

While specific ingredient lists for fragrances can often be proprietary, the described profile suggests a complex interplay of elements. The amber base provides a warm, resinous foundation, often associated with notes like labdanum and ambergris. This is typically layered with woody accords, which can include sandalwood, cedarwood, or patchouli, adding depth and structure. The "earthy elements" hint at notes such as vetiver, moss, or even certain spices that can ground the fragrance and provide an intriguing counterpoint to sweetness. The "rich vanilla vibe" suggests a prominent vanilla note, likely enhanced by other sweet or gourmand elements that contribute to its enveloping quality.
This combination of notes is intended to create a scent that is sensual without being overpowering. The balance between the warmth of amber and vanilla, the grounding effect of woods and earthiness, and the potential inclusion of subtle spices is crucial for achieving a sophisticated and appealing aroma. The objective is to craft a fragrance that offers a luxurious experience, reminiscent of classic perfumery but with a modern sensibility.

Packaging and Brand Identity: Understated Elegance
In line with MERIT Beauty’s overarching brand philosophy, the packaging for New Wave Extrait de Parfum maintains an aesthetic of understated elegance. While the specific design details are distinct from Retrospect, the new bottle is conceived to embody the brand’s commitment to considered beauty. This approach often translates into clean lines, high-quality materials, and a minimalist color palette that emphasizes the product itself.
The brand’s dedication to a "clean" beauty ethos, which typically involves avoiding certain ingredients deemed potentially harmful or unnecessary, extends to its fragrance offerings. This commitment resonates with a growing consumer segment that prioritizes transparency and ingredient integrity in their purchasing decisions. MERIT’s packaging and product formulation reflect a conscious effort to align with these evolving consumer values, ensuring that their fragrances are not only appealing in scent but also align with a healthier approach to personal care.

Comparative Analysis: New Wave vs. Retrospect
The introduction of New Wave provides an opportunity to compare and contrast MERIT’s two distinct fragrance offerings. Retrospect, with its soft, powdery, and musky character, appeals to those who favor subtle, skin-like scents with a touch of nostalgic elegance. Its composition, featuring iris, violet, and rose, lends itself to a more delicate and intimate olfactory experience. It is the type of fragrance that enhances one’s natural scent, offering a comforting and familiar aura.
New Wave, on the other hand, presents a bolder and warmer profile. Its amber and woody notes, coupled with a rich vanilla accord, suggest a fragrance with more projection and longevity. The emphasis on sensuality and warmth positions it as a statement scent, particularly suited for occasions where a more pronounced and enveloping aroma is desired. The reviewer’s personal preference for New Wave, citing its "warmer, more confident character" and "depth," highlights a preference for fragrances that possess a more assertive presence and a richer, more complex structure.

This divergence in olfactory profiles is a strategic advantage for MERIT Beauty. It allows the brand to cater to a broader spectrum of consumer preferences within the fragrance market. While Retrospect serves as an entry point for those seeking understated luxury, New Wave offers a more evocative and impactful experience for those who desire a fragrance with a distinct personality and seasonal appropriateness. The existence of both fragrances provides consumers with options, enabling them to select a scent that best aligns with their individual taste and the occasion.
A Resonance with Classic Aromas: The Penhaligon’s Constantinople Connection
A significant point of reference for understanding the appeal of New Wave is its perceived similarity to Penhaligon’s Constantinople. This comparison is particularly noteworthy as Constantinople is described as a beloved fragrance that is sadly no longer in production. The reviewer highlights Constantinople’s warm vanilla, earthy patchouli, and moss notes, balanced by subtle spice, as elements that make it an ideal autumn and winter scent. The fact that New Wave evokes a similar "vibe" suggests that it successfully captures a particular olfactory sensibility that is highly sought after during colder months.

The appeal of Constantinople, and by extension New Wave, lies in its ability to achieve a balance between sweetness and earthiness. This nuanced approach prevents the fragrance from becoming overly cloying or heavy. Instead, it offers a sophisticated warmth that is both inviting and intriguing. The comparison implies that New Wave offers a modern interpretation of this classic fragrance archetype, providing consumers with a contemporary alternative to a discontinued favorite. While not a direct dupe, the shared characteristics of warmth, sensuality, and an earthy undertone make New Wave a compelling option for those who appreciated the complexity of Penhaligon’s Constantinople. This connection can be a significant draw for consumers who have fond memories of the discontinued scent or are actively seeking fragrances with similar qualities.
The Broader Implications for MERIT Beauty
The successful launch and reception of New Wave Extrait de Parfum have significant implications for MERIT Beauty’s position in the competitive beauty landscape. By expanding its fragrance offerings with distinct and well-crafted scents, the brand solidifies its identity as a purveyor of comprehensive beauty solutions, moving beyond its initial focus on makeup and skincare.

The strategic choice to introduce a warmer, more sensual fragrance like New Wave indicates an understanding of seasonal market demands and evolving consumer preferences. The increasing consumer interest in "clean" beauty and transparent ingredient sourcing further positions MERIT favorably. The brand’s ability to collaborate with esteemed perfumers like Dominique Ropion and Meabh McCurtin lends credibility to its fragrance endeavors, suggesting a commitment to quality and olfactory artistry.
Furthermore, the success of both Retrospect and New Wave could pave the way for future fragrance innovations. MERIT’s approach to scent creation, characterized by thoughtful composition and elegant presentation, aligns with the brand’s overall ethos and is likely to resonate with its target demographic. As the brand continues to grow, its fragrance portfolio will play an increasingly important role in its identity and market appeal, potentially attracting new customers and deepening the loyalty of existing ones. The ability to offer diverse olfactory experiences that cater to different moods and seasons is a testament to MERIT’s evolving sophistication as a beauty brand. The continued focus on quality, sophisticated scent profiles, and a clean beauty ethos suggests a promising future for MERIT Beauty in the global fragrance market.

